18A, Zaynabetdinova str. Asian Explorations is also run by the same people.Usually, you pay for a trip all the way to Bishkek and with an overnight stay in Naryn. After Naryn (360m out of Bishkek) the road condition deteriorates step by step and after Kazarman (560km from Bishkek) the rough climb up the steep 3100m Kaldama Pass can be a taxing and bone-shattering experience. I have now changed the information on the page. //-->, Pik Lenin 7134m ( formerly Mount The problem in this case is; it has gotten many new names.Some says Peak Kaufman is the new official name. Holding onto the left side of the ridge, move to the top. Pik Lenin and the Trans-Alay range of Kyrgyzstan offer huge kaleidoscope landscapes with many ski touring opportunities - an expedition on the 7,000m Peak I like this bit: Melt off from the glaciers and snow fields also makes access hard.In the main climbing season the weather is usually quite stable and until you reach 5000m it can be really hot.In the end of August storms appear with higher frequency, it fast gets colder and the first autumn snowfalls hide dangerous crevasses and makes progress on the peak harder.During the normal climbing season there are always guides, tour operators and expert climbers who knows the area's weather patterns very well. You can self arrest with an axe, not with sticks. google_ad_width = 728; 550km out of Dushanbe you arrive in Khorog, the only city of any size before Murghab which is another 320km away. Most flight search engines do not detect this connection. The climb is very much a non-technical… google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; in the icefall, where there's a danger of falling into crevasses. Someone has information about the first winter ascent? The fee is a few US Dollars a day.In Tajikistan, try to get hold of Mr. Wladimir Razykov, who can be contacted in any of the top end hotels in Dushanbe. If going with the local nomads; always ask if you have to pay for the ride! Tel. google_color_bg = "FFFFFF"; The whole range attracts clouds and many times it's overcast. Done first time by the North Face (Jacob Arkin "Metla" Route 5A) on the 31'st of January 1988. Starting from the standard Camp 1 at 4,400m on the normal route up the north side of Lenin, the pair climbed the east face of Pik Yukhin (5,112m), as many do for The Base CampsThe normal BC is called Pamir Base Camp or Camp Achik-Tash and is located at 3500 m. It's in nice settings and one of few BC's for 7000m peaks which are on grass, in quite warm surroundings. The spring is beautiful and extremely green and even if the weather in general is quite good, sudden violent storms hits the peak. Just ask for "Alpinist-Wladimir" and the person you ask will know.The only way to reach Pik Lenin from central Tajikistan is to travel on the Pamir Highway and for this you need an additional permit. The following agencies have been around for a long time and are supposed to be some of the more reliable. Tel. The route trav­els up snow and rock even­tu­al­ly reach­ing a plateau at 20,997 feet / 6,400 meters. Beautiful mountainous scenery and pasturelands along the way. http://www.mountain.ru/eng/skialp/2001/lenin/valdek.shtml a'sallamah aleikum, Sometimes the mountain decides for you whether the summit is in the cards, and this time it was not. If you climb some hills after Khorog, you may be able too see the extremely spectacular peaks in the Shakhdarinskiy Range. Uzbekistan Reason: Climbers use sticks also when an ice ax would've been more suitable. The Chinese peak has even easier access, is higher and also considered less dangerous than Pik Lenin. Every year climbers from both ends of the extremes come to Pik Lenin - complete novices who have never set foot on a mountain before and the extreme elite like Shamalo, who described the climb as "stealing candy from a baby".The official grade is 5A Russian grade. You cross the border to Kyrygzstan another 80-85 km away. 341 likes. 24/7 Day 12: Rest day C3, sunny and clear. Der Pik Lenin in Kirgistan im Tian Shan Gebirge gehört zu den nördlichsten 7000ern der Welt. google_color_link = "0000FF"; The base camp of Pik Lenin is heaven. "Red sky in the morning sailors take warning, red sky at night sailors delight ". I applied in the Ankara embassy, Turkey. If staying in the camps, try to camp close to the dining tent of the administrative center. All these cities have companies or agencies which can arrange the red tape, transport etc.Bishkek is well served by railway and the prices arriving from capital cities in Europe, usually via Moscow are very low, but travel times are long and quite complicated visa regulations in Russia makes you think twice if it's worth the extra hassle. Have a good flight ! A very brief article about the incident by Ken Nolan.Another very sad episode in the mountain's history is from 1974 when a Soviet all female team was trapped high on the peak in bad weather. Here's a Warning I found on a page about Pik Lenin. You'll get in the ministry of interior and it's free, or $20, again depending on whom you talk to. If you want proof that Friday 13th is an unlucky day, look no further. In total, 43 climbers out of a 45 die. Peak FeePalic addsThere are NO CLIMBING OR TREKKING permits in Kyrgyzstan since the beginning of season 2003. If you fall to the South, it will cost a fortune to search for your remnants - The South Face of Lenin peak can only be reached by a helicopter - and it's not cheap. Many climbers also come back with fond memories of having "camped with nomads" and great horse-back rides on the grasslands. Tashkent in Uzbekistan and Dushanbe in Tajikistan also have airports with international connections. This magnificent peak looks down over the Alay valley, home to many nomadic Kyrgyz living in Yurts and known for their horse farming along with the local speciality of fermented horse milk known as Kumis. (13 ). Kaufmann ). Even this border crossing can be taxing as the Uzbek immigration (also the Kyrgyz, but to a muss lesser degree) sometimes really fish for "Schtraff". Pik Lenin Weather (Days 0-3): Mostly dry. Thanks Dmiki. This is still the the worst accident in mountaineering history. : +996 312 694075; +996 312 694073Fax. i looked into the Asia Mountains Guide company you listed to find more info and found the site link to have changed. . If you want to go straight to Pik Lenin and get the permits in Osh, make sure the travel agent knows about this before departure. Pik Karla Marksa and Pik Engels are the most prominent. The water is clear, but you better boil or treat it in some other way before drinking it as there are plenty of life stock in the valley.A bumpy road leads to the Onion field camps and if you don't want to walk, it's easy to get a ride with a jeep. 2. Getting There - From Tajikistan, Pamir Highway Get a "Gorno Badakshan O.A. It doesn't have to be long or thick. Great to have on the lower reaches, but remember the accident frequency on the mountains have gone up a lot with the use of sticks. If you’d like to know more or request to join the team as a non-alumna, please get in touch. (33), Comments A very brief article about the incident by Ken Nolan. Ascend NW Ridge of Pik Lenin. google_ad_client = "pub-0821736599960485"; Summiteers: V.Hrishchaty, S.Arsentev, V.Balyberdin, V.Dedy, J.Moiseev, I.Tulaev. If you camp alone, away from the organized camps; never, ever leave your tent unattended. http://www.centralasia-travel.com/en/expeditions/lenin. On 13 July 1990, 45 mountaineers were stationed at Camp II on the Razdelnaya route at 5,300m on Lenin Peak preparing themselves for their next ascent to Camp III. Camps/snow caves on 5500, 6000 and 6500. Extremely cold (max -30°C on Sat night, min -34°C on Thu morning). There are camps higher up in the valley on the so called Onion Field at 3800m. Go down from Camp 3 to the saddle and climb the steep take-off to the wide western ridge of Lenin Peak. Steve and his partners run a little tourist company and can help you with all the arrangements for the Torugurt crossing. Movement in crampons. (28), Additions & Corrections google_color_url = "008000"; mountain of the Pamirs, and second highest in the former Soviet Union. Ascent to the top of Lenin peak 7134 m. And descent to the Camp 3 (6100 m). The 13'th of July 1990, an earthquake triggered an avalanche that wiped out Camp II on the Normal (Razdelnaya) route. Most companies charge 2 Euros/night for a night in their spacious two men tents.Most companies offer satellite phone calls, but they tend to be quite expensive.Gear storage is available for free for expedition members and for a small fee for those climbing alone. Do they continue to track these ascents since the collapse of the Soviet Union? If you climb all of them, you get the title Snow Leopard, which is considered an indicator you're a top rank climber. The route is 400km easy ride to Osh. Crampons, with non-stick plates to avoid build up of snow. Pik Lenin 2013. google_color_text = "000000"; Murghab is a small Kyrgyz settlement with a few hotels and when continuing north the highest pass en route is encountered. For last minut shopping for provisions or gear, Osh is the only city of any size close to Pik Lenin. Irkestam Pass.This pass was closed until year 2000, but now it's completely hassle-free.If shooting for the Irkestam option, be sure you have bought everything you need before leaving Kashgar as you will not pass any settlements of size before arriving in Pik Lenin BC.Transport to BCAny of the below mentioned organizers can arrange the transport.From Osh to BC it's about $25 and so is the pick-up service cost from Irkestam Pass/China border. Usually this visa is easy to get, but quie expensive.Call one of the Tajik Embassies for more info. Here they camped twice at 6,031m. google_ad_channel =""; So it is "cheaper" to fall north, especially if you want your relatives to remember you with kind words. 7134m Pik Lenin is well known for predominantly two reasons; as one of the “easiest” 7000m climbs in the world, and as the site of the worst mountaineering accident, by fatality count, to ever occur. They established their "true home", Camp 1 at 4200m one day later, before pushing up to Camp 2 at 5200m on 23 July and Camp 3 at 6100m at Pik Razdelnaya. Be sure you are acclimatized before leaving Khorog as the road will stay on a high altitude for a long time ahead. Furthermore they offer flghts between Bishkek and Osh. (2), Images With its 7134 meters the Lenin Peak is the highest mountain of the Trans-Alay mountain range and one of the three seventhousanders of Kyrgyzstan. He crossed the Fergana valley, then via Osh, the Chigirik Pass and Terekdavan Pass he reached the Kashgar and finally came over the Karakorum. The route out of Camp 2 follows a ~35-40 degree slope before traversing across gentle terrain to the base of Pik Razdelnaya. The trio had left Italy on 17 July for Kirghizistan and reached Base Camp … Quite a good article here about a snowboard descent in 1999... "The ascent of Lenin peak along the Western ridge is not technically difficult. Thanks. Just a day previously, team member Luca Dalla Palma (who, together with Elena Spalenza formed this three-man expedition) descended via the Normal route from 6500m using telemark skies. The latter month is supposed to hold the most stabile weather.The area gets frigidly cold in the winter, even though it's not as bad as at the Pik Pobeda area, which holds many records in the extreme climate criteria. is located on (5A) The temperature was down to -50 degrees C. Expedition leader: Leonid Troshchinenko (Leningrad). Most flight search engines do not detect this connection. : +996 312 694074E-mail: asiamountains@mail.ruWebsite: http://www.asiamountains.net/enRecommended.Ak-Sai65, Sovetskaya str720005 BishkekKyrghyz RepublikPhone: 996 /312/ 54 42 77Fax: 996 /312/ 54 42 19E-mail: info@ak-sai.comhttp://www.ak-sai.comRecommended.Asia Travel Group97, Chilanzarskaya str., 700115, Tashkent, UzbekistanTel. It is It is also the favourite mountain for alpine skiers. If you have any valuables you want to leave while higher on the peak, ask the camp boss to take care of it.Unfortunately there are some shady individuals lurking around looking for "free stuff".Palic added:I do not know situation this year, but I had similar experiences in 1999-2001, when we had visited this area. The road mostly follow the border river Pandzh and on the other side you can see the rugged landscape of Afghanistan. This option have some hassles attached. : (+996) 55665 77 99 I agree that majority of thefts are made by local youngsters, but no all as adults had to take part in too. 25/7 Day 13: Summit Pik Lenin (7.5 hrs) and return to C3 (4.5 hrs) 1 hr on summit, sunny and clear. E-mail: Moscow@centralasia-travel.com Getting There - From Uzbekistan The road from Tashkent to Qoqand/Kokand is mostly in good condition and there are lots of bus, mini-bus and shared-taxi alternatives. Site 40/3, Oybek str A reliable contact in Kashgar (Xinjiang, China) is Steve Larson in the Caravan Café. google_ad_format = "336x280_as"; thought to be There is no public transport that goes all the way and a combination of mini-bus rides is the most common way of travelling. Lenin Peak is located on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan in the Pamir mountain system. Preferably a long one, which can double as walking stick. The peak has seen a lot of things going on over the years. Could you add our contacts to the list of agencies, please? I couldn't find one. highest All Rights Reserved. google_ad_channel =""; It's only climbing, for God's sake, and I am doing it for one reason and one reason only, and that's because it makes me feel alive."" He was the first European who crossed the Alai Mountains. Pik Lenin is included in the Pik Lenina (česky též Leninův štít, kyrgyzsky Ленин Чокусу - Lenin Čokosu; rusky пик Ленина - pik Lenina; tádžicky қуллаи Абӯалӣ ибни Сино - doslova „vrchol Avicenny“) je s výškou 7134 metrů nad mořem nejvyšší vrchol Zaalajského hřbetu a druhý nejvyšší vrchol v bývalé sovětské části pohoří Pamír. The mountain is climbed during all seasons. It's enough for the sections you'll need a rope, i.e. --Alan Mullin, Gorno-Badakhshan A.O., Kyrgyzstan/Tajikistan, Asia, Routes A harness, karabiners, slings for roping up etc. The ride from Sary-Tash is mostly over the huge grassy valley of Alau before it finally climbs up towards BC on a rough road.Via Naryn.A very busy stretch of industrial wastelands takes you east to the foothills of a small range and further to the shores of Ysyk Köl Lake. Con­tin­u­ing above the plateau, we encounter a short, steep snow slope of about 40 degrees. Base infoPik Lenin is the third highest peak in the former Soviet Union and is considered to be one of the easiest mountains over 7000m. Transfer hotel is paid by Pulkovo.Some years back Aeroflot was the given alternative, but nowadays their prices are not as good as for example Pulkovo. Adventure Travel,